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In fashion, the bias-cut is revered for its ability to accentuate natural lines, creating fluidity and grace. But in the hospitality industry, "bias" takes on a different—and far less flattering—meaning when applied to fashion and appearance standards. For women, especially those working in hospitality, expectations around dress and grooming often cling as tightly as a bias-cut gown, shaping not just their silhouettes but their career paths. New research by Miranda Kitterlin-Lynch, PhD, Professor at Florida International University, and Lani Kane-Hanan, CEO of Open Network Exchange, explores how these biases continue to weave through dress codes and uniforms, reinforcing gendered expectations and limiting professional potential.
Historically, fashion discrimination in the hospitality workplace has perpetuated gender-based biases and outdated norms. Women frequently face stricter dress codes, gendered uniforms, and appearance expectations that do not necessarily apply to men. These standards can result in psychological stress, career limitations, and marginalization, particularly for women of color or those from non-Western cultures. By revising dress codes, promoting cultural competence, and encouraging inclusivity, hospitality organizations can create more equitable work environments, allowing women to thrive based on their skills rather than their appearance.
Historical Context: Gendered Expectations in Hospitality
The hospitality industry has a long history of gendered expectations when it comes to employee appearance. From the early days to the modern era, women working in hospitality companies have often been expected to dress in a way that aligns with traditional ideas of femininity, service, and subservience. Historically, women were hired for roles that were seen as an extension of their traditional domestic duties—housekeeping, waiting on guests, or working as receptionists. These roles often required women to wear uniforms that emphasized their femininity, such as skirts, dresses, or even form-fitting clothing.
Even as the industry has modernized, these expectations may persist. In many hospitality workspaces, employees are expected to adhere to traditional gendered attire; for example, men being expected to wear standard suits and women being expected to wear makeup and heels. While hospitality organizations should uphold their employee dress code standards in alignment with their mission, vision, and goals, this discrepancy highlights how deeply ingrained gendered fashion norms are within the hospitality industry.
The Double Bind of Appearance and Professionalism
Women in the hospitality industry often find themselves caught in a double bind when it comes to their appearance. They are expected to look feminine while maintaining a professional demeanor that does not distract from their work. This balancing act can be difficult to navigate and can lead to a host of problems.
For example, women who dress in a way that is perceived as too casual or masculine may be judged as unprofessional or lacking in femininity, which can harm their career prospects. Conversely, women who dress in a way that is deemed too feminine or attractive may face objectification or assumptions that they are not serious about their work. These biases are often rooted in societal expectations about how women should present themselves, but they are amplified in the hospitality industry, where appearance is a central aspect of guest interaction.
The double bind extends beyond clothing and into grooming standards. In some hospitality companies, female employees are expected to wear makeup, style their hair in certain ways, and adhere to grooming requirements that do not apply to male employees. These grooming standards reinforce the idea that women’s primary value in the workplace is tied to their appearance rather than their skills or abilities. Conversely, some companies now permit male employees to wear certain hairstyles, accessories, or cosmetic products in the workplace that would be expected of their female counterparts.
Gendered Uniforms and Their Implications
Uniforms play a critical role in the hospitality workplace, and they often reflect the hierarchical and gendered structures within the industry. Many hospitality workspaces have distinct uniforms for male and female employees, with female employees historically given uniforms that are less practical.
Such gendered uniforms have several negative implications. First, they perpetuate outdated notions of gender and professionalism, which can undermine a woman’s sense of self-worth. Moreover, gendered uniforms can be physically uncomfortable or impractical for the tasks women are required to perform. Wearing high heels, for example, can lead to discomfort or even injury over time, yet some hospitality companies still mandate them as part of the uniform for women in certain positions. This creates an unnecessary burden on female employees, forcing them to prioritize their appearance over their comfort and well-being.
Cultural Fashion Discrimination: Intersectionality in the Hospitality Industry
Fashion discrimination against women in the hospitality industry is further complicated by issues of race, culture, and ethnicity. Women of color and those from non-Western cultures often face additional layers of discrimination when their clothing or appearance does not align with Western beauty standards or the expectations of hospitality management.
For instance, Black women who choose to wear their natural hair in styles such as braids, locs, or afros may face scrutiny or pressure to conform to more Eurocentric beauty standards, such as straightened hair. This form of "hair discrimination" is a manifestation of deeper racial biases that exist within the industry. Similarly, Muslim women who wear hijabs or women from South Asian cultures who wear traditional garments may find that their attire is viewed as unprofessional or inappropriate in Westernized hospitality environments.
These cultural forms of fashion discrimination not only marginalize women from diverse backgrounds but also limit their opportunities for advancement in the industry. Women who are forced to choose between their cultural identity and their career advancement are placed in an unfair and uncomfortable position, leading to feelings of alienation and exclusion from the workplace.
Fashion discrimination also applies to body size and type, pregnancy, and physical ability. For example, pregnant women may face challenges with uniforms that do not accommodate their changing bodies, and people with disabilities may find that certain uniforms are not designed with their needs in mind. Consideration should be made for every employee when forming uniform policies and appearance expectations to foster inclusivity.
The Role of Implicit Bias and Stereotyping
Fashion discrimination in the hospitality workplace is often perpetuated by implicit biases and stereotyping. Implicit bias refers to the unconscious attitudes or stereotypes that people hold about certain groups, which can affect their behavior and decision-making. In the context of the hospitality industry, implicit biases about gender, appearance, and professionalism can lead to discriminatory practices that disproportionately affect women.
For example, women who wear more casual or gender-neutral clothing may be perceived as less competent or less professional than their more traditionally dressed counterparts, even if their work performance is identical. Similarly, women who dress in a more feminine or fashion-forward way may be seen as superficial or less capable of handling leadership roles. These biases can influence everything from hiring and promotion decisions to performance evaluations and daily interactions with guests and colleagues.
The stereotyping of women based on their appearance also plays a significant role in fashion discrimination. Women in the hospitality industry are often expected to embody certain stereotypes, such as being nurturing, approachable, or accommodating. These stereotypes can influence the way women are perceived and treated by both guests and management, creating a narrow set of expectations that limit women’s ability to express themselves and advance in their careers.
The Psychological Toll of Fashion Discrimination
Fashion discrimination in the hospitality workplace can have a profound psychological impact on employees. The constant pressure to conform to strict dress codes and appearance standards can lead to anxiety, stress, and feelings of inadequacy. Women, in particular, may feel that their value in the workplace is tied more to how they look than to the quality of their work, leading to a diminished sense of self-worth and professional identity.
This psychological toll is exacerbated by the fact that fashion discrimination often goes unaddressed or is dismissed as a minor issue. Those who speak out about dress code policies or fashion-related biases may be seen as overly sensitive or difficult, which can further marginalize them within the workplace. Over time, the cumulative effects of fashion discrimination can contribute to burnout, disengagement, and even a decision to leave the industry altogether.
Addressing Fashion Discrimination in the Hospitality Workplace
To combat fashion discrimination in the hospitality industry, a multi-faceted approach is needed. Organizations must recognize that appearance-related biases are deeply ingrained in the industry and take active steps to create more equitable and inclusive environments. Below are some key strategies to address fashion discrimination:
Review and Revise Dress Codes: Hospitality organizations should critically examine their dress codes to ensure that they are not perpetuating gender-based or cultural biases. Dress codes should be flexible, inclusive, and focused on professionalism rather than reinforcing outdated gender norms. This may involve eliminating requirements for makeup, high heels, or gender-specific uniforms. It should also be noted that dress codes could benefit from being inclusive of male employees who are more comfortable dressing in non-traditional male attire.
Promote Cultural Competence: Hospitality companies should provide training on cultural sensitivity and implicit bias to help staff understand and respect the diverse backgrounds of their colleagues and guests. This can help reduce cultural fashion discrimination and create a more inclusive work environment.
Empower Employees: Employees should feel empowered to express themselves through their clothing (albeit within alignment with company vision) without fear of discrimination. Company decision-makers can foster this by allowing employees to choose uniforms that reflect their comfort and cultural identity. Further, engaging members of the organization at all levels to be part of the creation of uniform policies and expectations can establish more employee buy-in, loyalty, and satisfaction.
Create Clear Reporting Mechanisms: Hospitality establishments should establish clear, confidential reporting mechanisms for employees who experience fashion discrimination. Management must take complaints seriously and address them promptly to prevent a culture of bias and exclusion.
It’s time to cut through these biases. What can your company do to untangle outdated fashion standards and create a truly inclusive workplace? Or, if your team is already leading the way, share your stories—we’d love to hear about it!
Special thanks to Seema Jain and the Seva Global team for their cultural competence consultation while writing this article.