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Propelled by a passion for wine and fine dining, Stefanie Hehn dedicated herself to attaining the title of Master Sommelier (MS), passing a rigorous series of tests that is renowned for being the most demanding in the industry.
After intense study and training, Stefanie progressed through oral exams that highlighted her knowledge of grape varietals, wine making, regions, regulations, storage, and handling as well as an in-depth understanding of spirits, liqueurs, beers, ciders, cocktails and other drinks. Next, she demonstrated her expertise in practical wine service, salesmanship, and diplomatic tableside manner. Finally, Stefanie aced a blind tasting–accurately identifying the grape, vintage, country, district and appellation of origin for six wines within 25 minutes. With a success rate of just four percent, the Master Sommelier designation was granted to Stefanie and only two other candidates in her year, 2020.
Since earning her MS credential, Stefanie’s dedication to learning has not wavered. With several hundred wines in her private collection at home, Stefanie tastes, trains, and challenges herself to blind tastings everyday.
She shares this wine wisdom and enthusiasm as the Head Sommelier at The Fontenay, the 130-room architectural gem that sits on the stunning Outer Alster Lake, a tributary of Hamburg’s scenic Elbe River. At The Fontenay, Stefanie created a 400-bottle wine program, which serves the Atrium Lounge, Fontenay Bar, Parkview garden restaurant, and two-Michelin star Lakeside restaurant. Her guiding principle? Simply to have people enjoy wine and be inspired by her passion.
Stefanie shares herstory.
As Master Sommelier, you have earned the highest distinction in the world of fine wine and beverage service. It is such an extraordinary achievement. How did you begin your journey? Was wine a part of your culture and family table growing up?
1985 is my vintage, and I was born within a winegrowing area called “Franken” in Germany. I had the vineyards right under my nose and couldn't ignore the subject. Our family enjoyed wine at parties and on major holidays.
What was your first job?
When I was at school, I sold wine as a holiday job at the cultural programme in Bad Kissingen during the concert breaks.
What drew you to the wine and hospitality industry?
I did my hotel management apprenticeship at Laudensacks Parkhotel in my home town of Bad Kissingen. There was a fine dining restaurant there where we served wines that went with the menu. Tasting the wines piqued my interest to learn more about wine and pairing wine with food.
What do you love most about the business and your job?
I love that the hospitality business gives me the chance to create special experiences, whether it’s for people I am just getting to know or those who have been our regular guests for a long time. And selling, of course! I love introducing diners to our wide range of wines and helping them discover selections that delight and do justice to the dining experience. As a Master Sommelier, education is even more important than before. I have a mentoring role and am happy to be able to pass on my knowledge.
Only 279 professionals worldwide have received the title of Master Sommelier since it was established in 1969. You are one of only two female Master Sommeliers from Germany. What inspired you to undertake the unique challenge of earning this prestigious title?
When I first started in the hospitality industry, I signed up for the first levels of wine education, initially becoming a certified sommelier. When I passed my "advanced" certification, the Master Sommelier Dimitri Mesnard asked me if I would take part in the next exams. I wasn't actually planning to, but while traveling through New Zealand, exploring new corners of the wine world, I kept thinking about it and signed up when I got back.
As a woman in hospitality, and particularly in the world of wine, how have you navigated the challenges of being in a male-dominated field?
For me, it is incomprehensible that a distinction is made between the genders at all. I would like to see a more neutral approach. However, the issue of family planning is still an obstacle if you want to have children. There is still a biological and sometimes also a professional difference in how women are perceived. I found that prioritizing the factors that I can control is the best way forward. For example, during my training phase to achieve the Master Sommelier title, I worked and studied hard. I also focused on putting my wellbeing first. I made sure I ate healthy–this helped me stay energized. I also made sure to stay fit. I took to running, listening to my special soundtrack in order to switch off the stress. By being my best–the most informed and prepared while staying healthy, fit and balanced–that was all that I could do. And that is all that I can continue to do to forge ahead and make progress.
What are you hoping to help change in the industry?
I want to encourage more people to be hosts with passion and enthusiasm. I would also like to see service professions better appreciated. On the guest side, I would like to see more connoisseurs who value enjoyment and service culture. And, as a front-of-house staff member, I don't want to be replaced by a tablet.😊
I would like to see more connoisseurs who value enjoyment and service culture. And, as a front-of-house staff member, I don't want to be replaced by a tablet.😊
What is the best and worst advice you've received?
Best: You shouldn't limit yourself; you should only set yourself limits. As soon as you can visualize something, you can achieve it.
Worst: That you should focus on one topic in the world of wine. I didn't take this advice as I don't want to restrict myself here. I want to embrace the full experience of wine.
What would you tell your younger self, just starting out in the industry?
Take as many trips as possible and celebrate the festivals as they fall.
What is your vision for the wine service at The Fontenay? Tell us more about your wine list for the rooftop restaurant Lakeside, which recently earned its second Michelin star.
Regarding the wine service, I encourage a warm, experienced, and authentic service for The Fontenay. Of course, expertise plays a very important role when it comes to wine. What is almost more important is the knowledge of human nature, so as not to come across as lecturing and to be able to serve each guest the right wine or wines that are appropriate to their needs and tastes.
Regarding the wine list, I am focusing on Germany, France and Europe. But there is also a worldwide individual variety with international positions from the USA, Australia and New Zealand. I have the whole world on the menu again–it has to be in the port city of Hamburg. There are both well-known and unknown winemakers, from boutique wineries to the big players. Thanks to good contacts with many leading winemakers, I have been able to track down wines that are ready to drink and have an impressive depth of vintage.
What is your favorite wine to serve?
Chat Sauvage, Rheingau - Germany
2008 Pinot Noir Drachenstein
This wine reminds me of my early years as a sommelier. I worked and lived in the village Johannisberg within the Rheingau Valley. People around the world associate the area with Riesling. But besides their great Riesling, there are a handful of producers who do exciting Pinot Noir that shows great quality and complexity.
What is your favorite wine to drink?
Weingut am Stein, Franken - Germany
2020 Scheurebe Vinz
Scheurebe is a grape varietal that is perfect for casual occasions. You can find it in Germany and Austria (Sämling) ranging from dry to sweet. With its intense exotic fruit flavors, Scheurebe is the German answer for Sauvignon Blanc. Vinz was fermented partly within a concrete egg, which gives a similar effect as oak, without the taste of oak. You can drink it with various foods or just enjoy a glass while sitting in the sun.
For diners new to wine, how do you set them at ease and what do you suggest as guidance in selecting wisely and learning more?
First of all: Be honest and say that you don’t have experience yet! Decide on the wine pairing and ask the sommelier for advice - this is how you will learn the most.
When you moved to Hamburg in 2010, you called it "love at first sight." How would you describe Hamburg to someone who's never been?
Hamburg is a very lush and liveable city. A quarter of the city is green space and there is a lot of water and more bridges than in Amsterdam and Venice combined. The city has a great and exciting variety of different dining concepts and offers all the amenities of a big city with a lot of relaxed flair. The spirit of the people is open-minded and liberal, which is very helpful in recent times.
Stephanie Hahn's Tips for Exploring Hamburg
What are some of your insider recommendations for the best places to eat, drink and explore in Hamburg?
If you are looking for a place to savor Hamburg, you have to look for a place with a great sommelier–the cellar has to be properly stocked!
1. The Kinfelts Kitchen & Wine is a casual place within the HafenCity where you can go for drinks or dinner. Maximilian Wilm and his team of sommeliers will assist you with your decision.
2. The Witwenball is situated within a beautiful street full of restaurants and bars called Weidenallee, within the central neighborhood of Sternschanze. It is run by Julia and Axel Bode, and it feels like sitting in the family’s living room with their engaging team–-a cozy place with a great wine and food selection, where you can stay for hours and feel taken care of.
3. I also like the restaurant HYGGE - the farm: Don’t miss their cakes and pastries. I like to bring friends for breakfast. It’s such a treat.
4. Another one of my favorites is the café Entenwerder 1. They have a stunning, direct view of the Elbe River and its ships.
5. And finally, a classic: the Haerlin Restaurant in the Vier Jahreszeiten has a great historic wine cellar and has been awarded two stars by the Michelin Guide.
What’s on your list for under-the-radar destinations in Hamburg?
Hamburg is a wonderful place for cycling and discovering new spots.
1. I love the Eppendorfer Moor. It's a natural reserve within a big city, a high moor within a beautiful forest. The picturesque landscape is maybe the quietest place I know in Hamburg.
2. People should explore the Treppenviertel Blankenese. I love to go there by river ferry from Landungsbrücken, because it feels like a holiday on the seaside. From the right bank of the Elbe River you can go up the stairs, and if you are hungry or thirsty you will find cafés and pubs to pop in and enjoy the view.
3. The Niendorfer Gehege is a natural playground where you can escape the hustle and bustle among beautiful woodlands, complete with hiking and riding trails. You may even get the opportunity to spot wildlife like deer, hares, and foxes. It’s where I often go to relax on a long walk or jog through the forest.
Great tips! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience, Stephanie!